Retracing Pune's Past

 Walking Along The Forgotten Paths Of Pune

Everywhere I look, are ugly steel and concrete structures. Every building looks like boxes stored on top of one another. Walkways full of people and hawkers. Roads unseen because of vehicular traffic. Horns blaring, Faces zooming past, no other thought, except to reach the other end. The trees on the sidewalk sparse and few, look as though they are tired of being alive. The sun blazes mercilessly even at an early hour....

It was just, such a warm morning that I found myself at the footsteps of the Shaniwarwada. A few like minded people had gathered around there.

We were to embark on a journey into the past. To visualise an era long lost, not even found in the books of popular history.

Saili Palande Datar and Yashodhan Joshi with our group

Konkan Darwaza

Sayali Palande Datar and Yashodhan Joshi, Indologists and experts in the field of history were going to take us on a tour into Pune as it was centuries ago.

Shaniwarwada was the meeting point and from there we were to walk around in the lanes and pathways, looking at structures and ruins of eras, lost in the sands of time.

Our first stop, was at the Shaniwarwad end of the PMC bridge. Tucked away amongst apartments and offices were the remnants of a rampart. This was the Konkan Darwaza or parts of it. steps and a half fallen wall belonging to the 12 centuryAD.

We then took the road to "Kasba Ganpati".

Deep Mal.

Kasba Ganpati

Known as the "Gram Daivat", or the Lord of the city, was and till  this day is worshipped by the people. He is the 'Manacha Ganpati or (the Highly revered one).

Built as early as the Yadava period, some structures like the inner pillars are still in existence. The Deep Mal or the light tower, could have been built in Shivaji"s reign. Jijabai, Shivaji's mother reinstated the idol. Later, in the Peshwa era, the temple, continued  holding pride of place.
Just behind the temple lies a maze of lanes. In every lane are structures and houses, we could see wooden carvings and archways, giving us the period of their construction.

Arches and Doors

Old Houses

Leaving behind the roads it actually felt like we were entering a Kasba. There were lanes leading to other smaller lanes which we were told housed people of particular professions. Each lane was named after a profession. For example there was the 'Shimpi Ali' or Tailors lane. Each house here had a 'Chabutara' or a platform. in the olden days, the tailors would sit with their paraphernalia, stitching for the royals and commoners. As it is today,people had people had their own tailors whom they would go to.

House in Shimpi Ali

Shimpi Ali

The 'Tambdi Ali' or the Copper Lane, where copper and brass pots pans and utensils were made in various sizes and shapes, according to the need of customers. Sadly, today, just a few workshops exist. People of the community though still reside in the Ali.
We went to one such workshop, and the whole process of turning a simple slab of Copper, into an artistic pot was shown and explained. What surprised me was the ease in which a piece of copper was transformed in no time.

When Pune was inhabited again in the 10th /11th Century, people were God fearing. On the boundaries of Pune, temples were built of specific Gods, who would protect the citizens of the village. The Nagareshwar and Ganesh temple is witness to this era. Although a lot of maintenance has been necessary over the years, the original structure still stands.

Nagareshwar Temple

Ganpati Temple

Moving on, we visited what was the most enthralling structure, I had ever come across. It was the Trishund Ganpati tempe. Tucked away in Somwar peth, this temple, just blows your breath away. The exterior is beautifully carved in wood and stone, It stands apart amongst a mixture of old and new dwellings.
The idol of Ganesh has three trunks. Built between 1754 and 1770, it is still a privately owned temple. The samadhi of Gosavi Maharaj, is said to be placed in a chamber below the idol. Even today the Gosavi Clan own the rights to this temple.
The speciality of this temple is that each ruler has added his imprint or stamp to it.

Trishund Ganpati Temple

We next walked up to the Shitole Wada. This was in the 'Phani Ali', or Comb Lane.
Sardar Shitole owned a lot of land in Punewadi. It was from him that Bajirao Peshwa the 1st. bought the land on which Shaniwarwada stands. Some facade of the Shitole wada can still be seen. The rest is now  a modern structure.
The Phani Ali leading to Shitole wada, was where combs made of wood and horns were made and sold.

Shitole Wada

Phani Ali Talim

The Talim is what the modern Gym is to us today. We could see the various exercise equipment there. This was only meant for the men. Women were not allowed to enter the Talim.
At the end of our walk Saili Palande Datar showed us photographs of artifacts found in these areas belonging to as early as the 3rdC.

The lanes were winding and intertwining. The senses of hearing and sight were at there peak. The mind was overwhelmed with getting a small glimpse of the past.
Walking, stopping and listening and then walking again through those lanes, we arrived back to the spot where we had begun our heritage walk...The Kasba Ganpati.

Once again, the blaring horns, the rush of people hurrying, the new constructions were onto us, reminding us that this now is the present. The past left far behind.
The pictures are there to remind me of our rich past. A reminder that the past will live on, if not through the passage of time, then through these pictures.

 

Parshuram Bhau Patwardhan

Parshuram Bhau Patwardhan of Tasgaon

Brahmibhat  Haribhat Patwardhan was the doyen of the Patwardhan Clan. He had 7 sons.

Krishna
Trayambak
Govind
Ramchandra
Bal
Mahadev and
Bhaskar.

Out of these, Trymbak, Govind and Ramchandra, became famous for their bravery.
Govindrao came to be employed with Balaji Vishwanath Peshwa. Due to his bravery and loyalty, he was gifted with a cavalry of 5,000 horses and the rank of General in the Peshwa's army. In due time all his other brothers too joined Govindrao. The Patwardhan brothers played their part in the battles of Malwa (1728, 1740 ), Delhi (1737, 1739 ), Bundelkhand (1741), Gujrat (1731, 1755) and Karnataka aginst the Nawab of Savnur, The Nizam, Hyder and Tipu Sultan.
Unfortunately as Govindrao was waging a battle in the south, none of the brothers could go with Bhausaheb Peshwa to Panipat.

Though after 1750 they administered and safe guarded the southern boundaries of Maharashtra completely.

The Patwardhans fought for the Maratha Empire from 1740 to 1800. In these 60 years almost all the breadwinners laid down their lives for the empire.

Parshurambhau Patwardhan, the son of Ramchandra Patwardhan, was just such a nobleman.

Bereaved of his father at the age of 13. He was brought up by his mother and uncle, Govindrao. His first encounter on a battle field was at Shrirangapattam, at the age of 17. Since then he fought for the empire in every battle till the age of 60.
His prime was spent in battles against:

1)   The Nizam of Sindhakhed

2)   Haider at Rattehalli

3)   The First Maratha - British war : Where he pursued General Guard, and made him beat a hasty     retreat from Borghat to  Panvel (Near Mumbai).
   

4)   Tipu Sultan had laid seige at Nargund,
      Parshuram bhau was successful in overthrowing that siege.

5)  He seized the fort of Dharwad and was instrumental in unfurling the Maratha flag on the fort.

6) After Shrirangapattam, the biggest challenge of his life was in the battle of Kharde, against the         Nizam in 1795. A big chunk of the success in this battle goes to Parshuram Bhau.

After the end of the battle of Panipat in January 1761, it was thought that the Maratha power had waned. The Nizam of Sindhakhed created a stir by not heeding to the ransom, he was supposed to pay an amount of 25lakhs which was not a paltry sum. Parshuram bhau, then, won the fort of Daulatabad from the Nizam.

After Nana saheb Peshwa's death, Madhavrao became the Peshwa. As he was still underage, his uncle Rahoba dada took over the running of the empire. Nobody was happy with this arrangement. Madhavrao was an able commander and administrator and he soon  assumed control. This created a rift between the two.
Fed up with the machinations of Raghoba dada's rule and not finding any way out, Parshuram bhau sided with Madhavrao. In anger, Raghoba, confiscated all his properties and he, Paarshuram bhau had to take cover with the Nizam.

In 1763 a huge battle was fought at Rakshasbhuvan between Madharao's Marathas and the Nizam. The Peshwa defeated the Nizam and freed, along with Parshuram bhau, all the other Sardars who had subjugated themselves to the Nizam.

Parshuram Bhau played an important role in many battles after this as well as siding with  Nana Phadnawis in the famous Barbhai episode.
He was given the task of looking after the safety of Gangabai, ( the widow of the slain Narayanrao Peshwa), who was then in a family way. Sawai Madhavrao was born and annointed as the next Peshwa in this very tense period.

In this whole interval the other Patwardhan brothers too played their part in many battles. After the demise, while at war, of Gopalrao, Vamanrao and Pandurang, the mantle of the Patwardhan clan fell on Parshuram bhau. This was around 1777.

The Jagir of Tasgaon became his home. It is situated. near Sangli and Miraj in Maharashtra.
Tasgaon was the station of Parshuram bhau with a compliment of 122 troops and weapons. In the larger scheme of things he was, however only a 1/3rd stake holder of the Miraj sansthan. Hence within the Mirajkar Patwardhans, the Tasgaon Rajwada and the surrounding  territory became his personal province. This came to be known as Kashe Tasgaon.

Not much is known of this principality between 1650 and 1770. It was only after Bhau took over that Tasgaon gained prominence.
Parshuram bhau was a devotee of Lord Ganesh. He built a temple in Tasgaon. To this day, the temple draws enormous crowds of devotees from the region during the yearly Ganesh Utsav.

There is a different form of architecture which catches the eye when you see the Rajwada. Tasgaon and the surrounding areas were under the rule of Adilshah of Bijapur till it was won over and became part of the Maratha Emire. The Northern gate of the Rajwada and the Northern wall are relics of the Adilshahi Era.

In a career which spanned 60 years, Parshuram bhau took part in almost 100 battles. His end too came on the battlefield. In 1799 while in battle with the Karvirkars of Kolhapur, he was severely wounded. It is said that he was taken to the Maharaja of Kolhapur in this critical state. No mercy was shown to him howevr and he was killed. A gruesome end for a brave and noble warrior.

The Tasgaon Rajwada, today is the residence of Mr. Rajendra Patwardhan. He is the 7th descendant of Parshuram Bhau, from the Tasgaon Branch.
The Rajwada and temple although difficult to maintain, is painstakingly looked after by Mr. Rajendra Patwardhan.

Some of the paintings found on the walls in the Rajwada. The colours are natural dyes.



Courtsey:  Mr. Rajendra Patwardhan
                  Photographs: Mr Jay Prayag.

Visiting Raver Khedi

A Visit To RaverKhedi

I was a part of a group of family and friends who had planned to visit Raver Khedi, the resting place or Samadhi of Bajirao1 Peshwa.
The distance from Indore to Raver is approximately 143kms.

We left Indore at noon and it took us almost 4 hours to reach Raver. Of course we stopped on the way at this quaint dhaba, simply named Gopal Midway at a village. called Badaweh, for a delicious lunch of Makki di roti, Sarson da saag, chaas and fresh warm jalebi. Badewah lies on the banks of the Narmada.

Moving on from there we reached "Sonavat", another town. A right turn sign brought us to the turning for the Baji Rao1 Samadhi.

                                            

The turn off form the highway we travel across a muddy road. It had rained the previous night and the road had turned to a long stretch of sludge and in places water was merrily flowing over the road. Lush fields greeted us on either side. There were places where the road was completely washed out. We had to get down from our vehicle and walk. 

Eventually though, we reached the village of Raver. walking through slippery pathways was difficult as we had elderly people with us. What kept everyone going ahead was the moment when we would pay our tribute to the samadhi sthan or eternal resting place of Bajirao1.

Finally we reached the gate of the Samadhi.

The feeling that I am to actually glimpse, the final resting place of Bajirao the 1st. made me stand still. A complete sense of satisfaction flooded my being. At last I would be able to pay homage to my Hero and Idol.

The Wada and his Samadhi, although neglected, were clean. I felt that even thru his Samadhi, Bajirao seemed to call out to us in his commanding way.

The Narmada flowed below silently. The cremation sight, which was built, the night Bajirao gave up this world still stands, with the Narmada flowing around it. 

The date was 28th April 1740. On the shores of the Narmada were tents and sarai's. Bajirao's army was preparing for another battle. 

I stood gazing out towards the shore and a clear picture formed in front of me. A hot sultry day in April. Hot winds blowing.fine sand across the area. Warriors preparing for battle in the heat. Bajirao holding the army together, encouraging them, till he falls ill. The fever consuming him and eventually he losing his only battle in life.

The tremendous loss to his Generals and warriors must have been immense. Within that horrible night a stone pyre is built in the Narmada and by the first rays of sunlight, the sun of the Maratha Empire is not with his army.

This then was the sight, I stood on, as though in a trance. The whole scene flashing before my eyes as though it happened just yesterday.