The Peshwa's Ganesh Ghat at Varanasi

Ganesh and Raja Ghat Varanasi

Gently flows the Ganges, confident in her beauty,

Her waters reach the steps of the ghats,

Calling out to her devotees, 'Come wash your sins' 

Bathe in my waters, swim across to my opposite shore,

With my sister the Yamuna, we flow together,

I am in Yamuna and Yamuna is in me, 

We pass as one, in the sacred town of Varanasi.

There is a right time to write a particular post and what better time than today!! So on this day 29th of August 2017 ( भाद्रपद  शुक्लपक्ष  8, शके  1939), I pen my thoughts on the Ganesh and Raja ( Annapurna) Ghat at Varanasi.

In 1803, a treaty was signed between the East India Company and Amrutrao Peshwa, the son of Raghunathrao alias Raghobharari, to leave Pune forever. He made Varanasi or Kashi his home in 1805. 

Amrutrao wanted to build a Annachhatra (a place where students and travelling Brahmins could rest and were provided with meals), and build a Ganesh temple on the shores of the ganges. Many places were looked at, but finally a place near Agneshwar Ghat was chosen as the right site to build the temple. This lies next to the Bhosle mandir and was owned by the Nagara Brahmins. Amrutrao bought the land from them and the temple was completed in 1807. It is made of red sandstone.
 The Ganesha idol was installed on 11th June 1807 ( प्रभाव  नाम  संवत्सर  ज्येष्ठ शुद्ध  शके 1729), and the deity was named Amrut Vinayak. The temple is built following the ancient rules of architecture. 

The प्रदक्षिणा पथ  (Circumambulation path), the सभामंडप  ( prayer hall), गर्भगृह (sanctum sanctorum) and the ओवरी  (parapet) is typical of Maharashtra temple construction. The parapet area was used to house devotees.

 A huge terrace outside the sabha mandap faces the ganges. on either side of the terrace are two Meghadambari (Canopies), The Meghadambari architecture is Rajasthani. 
The landscape looking out from here is exquisite. The gently flowing ganges brings a sense of peace and serenity. The temple is east facing, hence the rising sun's rays fall on  the Ganesh idol. This vision is spectacular.
Above the temple area is the accomodation. The administrator of the trust in recent years lived there. 
The Trustees (Descendants of Amrutrao saheb Peshwa), when visiting also live here and their accommodation is separate in the Chitrashala. Only the Priest, Administrator and the Trustees are allowed entrance in the sanctum sanctorum.

                                                                       

 

The description of the idol is given in detail by Iconographer Dr. N.P Joshi and the Marathi translation by the eminent Archeologist and Indologist Dr. G.B. Deglurkar.

 The idol and his asan (seat) is made of a rare orangish marble. It is because of this peculiar colour, that the people of Varanasi and surrounding areas believed that the idol was made of coral. Since then the idol has come to be known as 'Munga Ganesh'. (Munga = Coral). 

The simple yet beautiful idol is 45 x 30 cms and is Chaturbhuj ( with four hands). His trunk is slightly curved towards the left. He sits on a 22 petalled open lotus with his legs folded. He is also known as Ekadanta and like the Ekadanta, he has one tusk which is half broken. He does not wear a crown an at the back of his head is a shendi (lock of hair). He seems to be wearing a dhotar (dhoti). the yadnopavit or janeyu is a serpent tied in a knot with the serpents mouth and tail. Ganesha's ears have holes at the top and on his earlobes, in which ornaments can be placed during the Utsav. The left palm is in Abhaymudra, whilst the right, is placed in such a way that a modak can be placed in it. The form of the idol is in round formation.

The Shakti's of Ganesha, Riddhi and Siddhi, are sculpted in typical maharashtrian style and on either side.The original idols were of pure white marble but with the passage of time they had to be replaced, the Khopa (headdress), their style of draping the nine yards are typical of Maharastra. 

His Vahan (carrier), the mouse sits in front of him. The size is rather large 41 x 30 cms. and is made of the same orangish marble. The mouse is seated on his hind legs, whilst his front paws are joint, holding a ladu (sweetmeat)

Aside of this there is a four wheeled chariot to which 2 mice are attached. The chariot is placed on a lotus. The charioteer has a head gear which is reminiscent of the area.

To carry out the  daily duties certain people were appointed. There was 1 Pujari (head priest), 2 pupils, 1 main Administrator, 1 head Accountant and 4 guards. The pupils were in charge of bringing water from the ganges and all the preparation for the Puja, which was performed twice a day. This worship included Mahapuja, नैवैद्य (offering of food) to the deity, afternoon offering of sugar and fruit and puja in the evening, with incense burning etc. 

Ganesh Chaturthi (Bhadrapath shuddha), was the main yearly Utsav. During the course of the utsav, Mahapuja, Ganesha's birth story, Reading of Ganesh Puran, Vasant Puja, Classical music oral and instrumental were performed. 

In the winter months the idol was bathed with warm water and was clothed in warm wear.

It was on the same day that a temple of Goddess Annapurna, a Shivalaya, and the Annachhatra was built on the Narada Ghat, which is beyond Dashashwamedh ghat and next to Hindu Vidyapeeth. At the time, food was cooked to feed 1000 Brahmins in the Annachhatra.

 Both these temples completed 200 years on the 18th of June 2007( Vinayaki Chaturthi, Monday). 

Today the Ganesh temple and the Annapurna temple and Raja Ghat stand tall in spite of all adversity. The customs and rituals laid down by our ancestors, continue to be followed. It is a private trust. The Trustees of which are descendants of Amrutrao Peshwa.

Leaving aside the period of unrest in 1857, never once has there been a break in the worship of Ganesha and the Utsav held in his honour.

 It continues to this day.

References: पेशवे घराण्याचा इतिहास भाग १, लेखक -  प्रमोद ओक 

                     An article written by late Shrimant Krishnarao Peshwa

                     Shri Amrut Vinayak and Shri Annapurna Devasthan, Smaranika, 2007